Walking

We were 15 sweat-soaked and tired walkers when we returned to the Swan at Little Totham. Long cold drinks were essential and the pre-ordered food was needed to revive us – and it soon did. With high humidity after overnight rain combined with a high temperature, it was possibly the hottest walk we have done and, although an undemanding walk, was sometimes a struggle especially across one field of rape. Over the previous weekend a farmer had thankfully mown the edge of one field where the footpath ran, clearing it of stinging nettles and long grass. Interestingly, according to Wikipedia, the road and field patterns in this area remain much as they were at the Domesday survey of 1085.

Quiet country roads, distant views of the River Blackwater and of the church standing alone at Beckingham Hall, and large expanses of farmland (we counted 5 different crops), dominated the walk. We passed through the tranquil village of Tolleshunt Major, through three gardens (one, Little Totham Hall dates back to the 12th century which we could only glimpse but saw and heard two peacocks in the grounds). We found some horses to pat (always an attraction!).

We admired period houses with decorative chimneys and paused at All Saints Church, Little Totham. The church is a Grade 1 listed building, has a 12th-century nave and 14th-century chancel and the north door dates from the 11th century and is said to be the oldest recorded church door in the United Kingdom and is nationally important in terms of its ironwork. We had time for a brief look at the interior.

Passing reservoirs, walking along what seemed to be an ancient ‘green lane’ joining Little Totham Hall to the moated Moors Farm, we meandered back to the Swan.

4.6 miles/7.3 kms

Diane Caulkett

After a very busy weekend with a personal wedding celebration and brisk Bank Holiday Monday trade, the Blackwater Bar & Bistro were waiting for us, pen poised and ready, to take our lunch orders prior to our walk.  Unlike their weekend our walk this month was to be a leisurely affair taken a little slower than usual and slightly shorter.

After a headcount, 23 today, we set off west heading into a brisk, warm breeze.  It was a beautiful morning with the sun shining brightly and the river looked glorious.  The first short stretch followed the St Peter’s Way and then we veered off crossing fields beside inland water pools.  Here wildlife flourished with plenty of reed and sedge warblers singing, skylarks rising, holly blue butterflies flitting about, and we had a bonus of seeing three brown hares.  Unfortunately we also saw a sign on a gate saying that hare coursing was illegal, so presumably this is a problem in this area.

The fields here are big and as we walked along the edges of one pushing our way through the long grass, the field on our left was being harvested.  The crop was some kind of fresh, green fodder, which was being transported in trailers to the Dengie Crop Driers.

We had two aims this month, the first, as requested by a member, was that we visit the ‘Petrified Oak Forest’.  These dead trees never fail to impress – except I did overhear one person say, ‘is this what we’ve come here for, just to see some dead trees?’.  When it was explained to her that these weren’t just any ordinary dead trees but were ancient trees mentioned in the Domesday Book she was impressed – the story goes that the trees were due to be chopped down in 1588 to build ships to fight against the Spanish Armada, but the wood was found to be too warped, so they were left to stand.

You can’t visit the oaks without also visiting the nearby delightful church of St Mary, which has been superbly restored by the Friends of Friendless Churches.  It has some interesting architectural features; a weather-boarded timber-framed tower, a 16th-century porch and inside a complete set of 18th-century box pews.

Leaving the church we started on our return back to Maylandsea by way of tracks, footpaths and a stretch on the seawall.

We were back on the dot of 12.30 where the food and drinks were served promptly and enjoyed by all.

4.5 miles/7 kms

Diane Caulkett

NOTE – There are 39 members in the Walking Group and in view of the increased number of those walking each month I am sorry to say that anyone wishing to join the Walking Group will now have to join a waiting list.

The focus of this month’s walk was bluebells.  Why is it that every year people who rarely venture outdoors visit ‘the bluebells’? I don’t know the reason why but when you see swathes of these blue flowers glowing in the dappled sunshine amongst the trees, it is magical – and the rich scent completes the pleasure.  Photographs do not do justice to the scene but no one can resist picturing them.
Leaving the car park we skirted a short stretch of Danbury Common, walked on footpaths through housing estates, gaining local knowledge from the residents as we went and reached the grounds of Riffhams.  Sheep with sturdy lambs grazed the pasture and looking north across the field and ponds we could see the grand house.  With 26 walkers crossing stiles slowed us somewhat; there are only three on this walk and two stand at each end of this field.  The further stile leads out into Hall Wood, a narrow strip of woodland but one that is rich in wildflowers, not only bluebells but also wood anemones, lesser celandines and stitchwort.

The Danbury area is particularly tiring to walk in with its many undulations and having descended across the pasture a short, sharp incline was a reminder of this.  Many paused halfway up to photograph our first sighting of bluebells – or perhaps to catch their breath!

Our third stile led across the lane to the orchards at Great Graces where quite often you can hear nightingales singing, but we were disappointed today.  However, Blakes Wood and its multitudes of bluebells didn’t disappoint and we spent some time admiring them.  The well-trodden paths wind through their midst so we could capture them in different lights.

Above photos taken (on the day) by Diane, Jan, and David

With time running out we hurried on and crossed the ups and downs of Lingwood Common, pausing only for a group photograph before a descent and a climb up ‘cardiac hill’ as nicknamed by some.  It was a spread out group that reached the hill near Danbury Church and the final descent back to the Cricketers pub was most welcome.  21 stayed for lunch so it was a noisy affair.

A wonderful walk – I wonder if these are the best bluebells in the area or should we go elsewhere next year? Perhaps you could let me know your views.

5 miles/8 kms

Diane Caulkett

NOTE – There are 39 members in the Walking Group and in view of the increased number of those walking each month I am sorry to say that anyone wishing to join the Walking Group will have to join a waiting list.

In the past I have lost three people in the woods, but not four in a 200m stretch across a bushy field – until today; so we started our walk with 26 and ended with 22! (What does U3A insurance say about that, Russ?).

What a glorious spring morning it was. We met at Madison Heights, Maldon, ordered our lunch at Henri’s and set off beside a housing estate to the peace and tranquillity of paths and farm lanes that led to the River Blackwater opposite Northey Island. There was some discussion amongst us as to the correct location of the Battle of Maldon as the information board indicates it close to where we stood, but now the thought is that it took place somewhere near Heybridge – never mind it was a long while ago, and we lost!

Turning up river we walked through the Promenade Park and along the front passing the quay with its usual complement of Thames barges. It was one of those picture postcard scenes that one sees so often of Maldon. Continuing on we passed the salt works and arrived at Fullbridge, crossed the road and took a footpath that led past the smokehouse, which is hidden at the end of Cromwell Lane and has yet to be tried by any of us.

Crossing our only stile, waiting for all to climb over successfully and counting them as they came (full complement) – with Mo, coming last, giving her flamboyant ‘I’ve made it over’ gestures, we continued on across a sloping field. This field is notorious for being muddy but today just one patch remained and after the mud we have encountered on recent walks, hardly counts as mud at all. It was on this 200m stretch that the ‘four’ got lost but no one had realised until we reached Beeleigh Abbey, at least 500m away. With the double gates wide open it was a good opportunity to have a good look at the Abbey. Interestingly in the local paper, April 4th edition, historian Stephen Nunn wrote an article about the Abbey and the Beeleigh Oaks, which are said to date back to 1491.

Realising we were four missing I started to retrace our route when the ‘phone rang and the news that the breakaway group were on their way to Maldon High Street – how did that happen? – even one of their husbands had not noticed that his wife had gone AWOL.

So, with a depleted group, we continued on to the Beeleigh Falls, an attraction that never fails to impress. Two other walkers came along and demanded ‘who is your leader?’ or more like ‘take me to your leader!’ – it doesn’t take much to make me quake but as I thought I had done something seriously wrong, I did; they seemed quite pleased in telling me that they had in some way been instrumental in sending the ‘four’ the wrong way.

The stroll back alongside the golf course, through the quayside and park, was uneventful.

It did create a lot of fun working out how to keep the group together, both practical and silly suggestions, but the general consensus was that the two people to blame today for failing to do so (apart from myself, of course), were Tim & David. Now David is usually at the rear taking pictures and Tim, such a gentleman, takes care of the ladies – but neither had come today, so in fact the back markers were those who got lost!

Not all stayed for lunch but the 24 who did were served quickly and efficiently and enjoyed their meals. It was good to see that new friends were made.

5.4 miles/8.6 kms

Diane Caulkett

What a contrast to last February when we had to cancel our walk due to snow – this year we had bright sun and temperatures in the high teens. Naturally this good weather brought out many walkers and 25 of us met at the Fox & Hounds, Tillingham, and two others caught us up shortly after we left making 27 in all. The publican was waiting pen in hand and poised ready to take our lunch orders and then off we went. It’s always nice as a group leader to think your group has gelled and from my perspective it is plain to see this group has, as they talk (non-stop), laugh (almost non-stop) but more importantly, from the social aspect, talk to all of the other group members.

Our route took us west along St Peter’s Way starting by crossing the sports ground, and continuing on paths across farmland that gently climbed 2 kms up to the high point of the walk – only 30m above sea level! Nature well and truly thought spring had arrived and the wonderful songs of the skylarks confirmed this. With all the exertions of the climb, excess garments were removed and we left our high point and turned south still crossing farmland and eventually reached High House Farm. This farm has the most beautiful mule with the largest ears that twisted and turned as it listened to our ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ and in an obliging way, posed for photographs. Nearby, in a paddock, grazed a group of donkeys and as we passed they jointly started braying, which caused us to laugh, and them, it seemed, to bray even louder.

A pleasant bridleway took us to more paths and tracks and passing on our right a disused gravel pit, now fishing lake, we crossed the main Asheldham to Tillingham road and crossed yet more farmland. Fortunately for us it was dry underfoot as one large field we had to cross had recently been ploughed and two weeks ago was very muddy indeed.

In the next field we disturbed a brown hare that raced across it to take cover in the hedgerow. Apparently Britain’s hare population has declined by about 80% over the past century, largely due to habitat loss. Now it is facing a deadly rabbit virus called haemorrhagic disease type 2 that has been confirmed in three places in the UK – two in Dorset and the other in Essex; so it made this sighting of a healthy hare all the more pleasing.

A few twists and turns brought us out to Reddings Lane, which we followed north joining a track that passed by several lakes and led back to Tillingham. Chaffinches accompanied us with their song along this stretch and in the distance we could hear the drumming of a woodpecker.

We were all ready for our lunch, which was served quickly and devoured equally quickly.

Diane Caulkett

Flanders & Swann’s song ‘The Hippopotamus’ comes to mind when thinking about this walk and although no one actually wallowed in the mud, Tony gave it his best try on two occasions and none of us returned ‘mud free’.  Up until the previous evening the ground had been hard but overnight rain put an end to that and walking over the fields the mud clogged on our boots making walking quite hard as our feet became larger and heavier.

From The Bell, Purleigh 18 of us set off happily descending south, crossed a slippery stile and traversed the first of the fields.  At first some cleaned their boots thinking there would be no further mud – little did they know!  It was to be a day of views and our first was looking back at Purleigh church on its hilltop position.  From this point we could also see our route and looked to see if any latecomers were trying to catch us up; as expected there were none, as the members of this group are always punctual.

Criss-crossing fields we arrived at Cold Norton and took the delightful footpath up to St Stephen’s church; from where there was another fine view looking back towards Maldon.  Then crossing the road the view changed to that of the River Crouch in the south.  Down and up we went reaching the disused railway line, which we followed to the first road and took that for a short distance before turning onto the footpath crossing the Three Rivers Golf Course.  There were only a few golfers playing so no hazards to deal with.

Passing Stow Maries church (our third church of the day and all quite different in style) we headed in a westerly direction with the longest climb of the day, a climb that is always harder than it looks, – but from the top, once again looking back, some more expansive views.  Through a vineyard and our last muddy field, a short stretch of road and our (almost) last ascent of the day.  The view from this high point is the best on the walk and today’s clear weather made it perfect.  From here you can see Maldon and the River Blackwater, pick out the Bradwell Power Station, look towards the River Crouch and about a kilometre away, our destination – always a welcome sight.

Due to the mud and slow progress over the stiles we were back 20-minutes late and were all ready to eat our lunch, which came promptly and was devoured in no time.

Next Walk: Tuesday, February 26th; ‘Where ‘ere you walk’ – TBA

Diane Caulkett